Day 2: Hashikami-dake to Tanesashi Kaigan

Reluctantly, I got up around 8. The rain had stopped, and I was still the only person in the campsite. When I emerged, I heard a soft "peckity peckity" in the tree right above my tent, and looked up to see a Japanese Pygmy Woodpecker at close range looking back at me. In fact, the place as crawling with birds: Willow Tits (probably), Lesser Cuckoos, Eurasian Nuthatches.

I packed up my gear. There were no witnesses, so let's just say I patiently and methodically returned the tent, sleeping bags etc into their respective unreasonably small bags, and at no point did I fling the sleeping bag away from me, cursing.

Now I know that camping is a thing that I can do, but maybe shouldn't do in public. I kept thinking of those Japanese magazine spreads with some perky looking gal in brand new hiking gear and the caption's like "Let's Camping!" and everything is so clean. I was the true face of "Let's Camping!": enchanted by a lil woodpecker, but seriously crabby, and so smelly.

 Anyway, after packing up like the pro that  I am, I made my way towards the peak. (Follow the signs that say 頂上 or 大開平.) First stop is Oobirakitai. You can look over Hachinohe et al from here. It was foggy that day, but the view should be more impressive on clear days.

Go past the red torii gate to the series of confusing markers. It's like that puzzle where one of the doors is lying. Here's the solution: it's a loop. You go straight in from that torii gate, up to the top (south), and then the path loops back to the same spot. Then go left (west?) and follow the green 下り signs.

I'll be honest: the day before, I didn't see that many compelling reasons to be going up the mountain besides the Most Amazing Roof, but the real hiking trail on the other side is lovely. Lots of flowers and birds. Plus, another benefit of coming down the hiking trail is everyone coming up thinks you're a badass and already finished the hike this morning.

About 3/4 through the trail down, there will be a paved road. You can go left down that road, like I did, or you can keep going straight, on the trail itself. Both end up at the same trail entrance later. I recommend the trail though.

Very close to the trail entrance is Frestopin Hashikami, god among establishments, which sells soba noodles and other tasty meals along with snacks and gelato. I sucked down an "ichigo-ni gohan setto" with rice and cooked sea urchin, soba noodles, pickles.

Next, I turned right (east) onto the 42, following the path for side trips for Kumanodo, the gigantic Ginko tree, and Date Shrine. All three of these have little yellow signs pointing you in the right direction, at least from west to east. Out of the three, I especially thought the gigantic Ginko tree was cool. Pictures don't do it justice. Also: keep an eye out for owls at Date Shrine. I found pellets, but no owls. Just a crow extremely interested in whether I was giving out food. By the way, that insanely small building really is a bathroom. Don't worry! Use it! It is a traditional Japanese porcelain hole in the ground style bathroom,  but it has toilet paper ready and is not smelly at all.
Sign to Kumanodo
Kumanodo (?)
Sign to the Gingko tree

Keep an eye on the round bus stop signs to keep track of whereabouts on the map you are.

After you come back to the 45 from Date Shrine (at some point the 42 changes to the 45) cross the light yellow pedestrian bridge and follow that road until you hit a T intersection, then turn left. You'll see Hashikami station to the right. Directly after I took this picture of the station, none other than the Tohoku Emotion went sailing by. The Tohoku Emotion is this high-class gourmet train that serves you courses upon courses of dessert or lunch, depending on which direction you take. Remember, I've sweated through a rainstorm and it's past my 1 day mark of taking a shower. My socks are a color that I've just brainstormed names for, and I don't think you want to hear them. Meanwhile, the Tohoku Emotion goes toodling by like the first class car on "Snowpiercer."

Anyway, after you highjack the Tohoku Emotion and rob them of all of their food, keep going north-ish until you can cross the railroad tracks. Swing a hard right at the fork on the other side of railroad tracks, go past Shiragawa shrine, and make your way up what's basically the 1, forever and ever, amen.

OK, honestly, I don't remember a lot about this part except I was in pain, and at one point I literally hid behind a vending machine and STUFFED my last two slices of bread and some beef jerky into my face.

Here is a handy guide to whether or not you're eating enough during a trekking trip:
Are you doing a convincing job of a starving wolf stripping a carcass to bones in seconds:
Yes [ ]
No [ ]
If yes: you need to eat more frequently, stupid.

So: go up the 1. On the right, I found a vantage point (高岩展望台)that ended up being the path. Go see the view, then continue north. A little further north, there's an outcropping where you can get a good view of Tanesashi shores. I was too tired to go there that day, and continued on. I went past the organic hippie something or other on the left, which emphatically says it is Reservation Only. There is a suspiciously high number of very glossy, fat, healthy-looking free range chickens in the area. Weird how that works?
No I'm not kidding go up here
See you tomorrow, too tired
Hippie chickens

OK, here's the good part: turn right (westish) at the traffic light. I'd planned to stay at Tanesashi campground originally, but I was 1000% for taking a bath that night. I stayed last minute at the first place I could find to stay: 志保 (Shiho). It was 4000 yen for a last minute reservation, no meals, and the gal in charge has English sign-in sheets. I hear from the store across the way you can make a reservation with meals included for I think 6800 yen, and that includes a real luxurious dinner.

Best bath ever, but before you get in that bath get ye to the store across the road before it closes. You are going to want snacks, and there are no convenience stores in the area that I could find.

Want dinner? Go to the restaurant right next door to 志保. It closes at 8, I think. I had the "hotate-yaki teishoku" and it was heavenly.

I sank into bed and fell asleep to the sound of the ocean.

1 件のコメント:

  1. Mom sent me this - enjoying reading this one in the right order after doing "Day 1" left to right.